Forbidden City: Emperors' Diet

The Forbidden City’s Secret Diet

In 1420, while Europe was amidst the Hundred Years’ War, China’s Ming Dynasty ruler established his new home in Beijing’s Forbidden City, beginning an era of imperial power. Inside these walls, emperors enjoyed unparalleled secrecy and security, with their daily lives shrouded in mystery.

Despite being the world’s largest palace complex, the Forbidden City remained enigmatic, especially regarding its culinary history. Food historian Zhao Rongguang from Heilongjiang is among the few who have studied the ancient imperial documents, now sealed due to their fragility.

Zhao began his research in the 1980s, a time when Beijing was transforming under Deng Xiaoping’s “open door policy.” Despite new cultural influences, Zhao focused on uncovering the Forbidden City’s culinary secrets, battling palace secrecy and a lack of serious scholarly attention to food history.

His research reveals that Emperor Kangxi of the Qing Dynasty (1661-1722) enjoyed a diet that evolved from traditional Manchu foods like roast game to including Han dishes such as duck gizzard stew. Exotic ingredients like tiger testicles, believed to boost libido, were also part of his diet.

The culinary practices further evolved under Qianlong Emperor (1735-1796), whose daily menus were meticulously recorded, providing a clearer picture of palace life. The Hong Kong Palace Museum's exhibition “From dawn to dusk: Life in the Forbidden City” showcases Qianlong’s rituals, including meals featuring both Manchu and Han dishes.

Key exhibits include a silver milk teapot, highlighting the importance of milk tea in the Qing Dynasty. Hot pot, a winter staple, and bird’s nest soup, consumed daily by Qianlong, illustrate the diverse diet. Bird’s nest soup, made from solidified swallow saliva, was believed to be highly nutritious.

Zhao’s research debunks myths like the extravagant Manchu-Han Banquet, popularized in modern times but not reflective of historical reality. Empress Dowager Cixi (1835-1908) is linked to these legends due to her lavish banquets, yet the most elaborate meals of her time had around 28 dishes.

Zhao’s motivation stems from his childhood during the Great Leap Forward’s famine, which instilled a deep appreciation for food security and historical accuracy. His ongoing work aims to provide a truthful understanding of the Forbidden City’s culinary past, highlighting its cultural significance and informing future food policies.